A walk down Rigillis Street near central Athens, between Vassilissis Sofias and Vassileos Constantinou avenues, reveals glimpses into the significant progress that has been made in the excavations at the archaeological site behind the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the location of the Lyceum, Aristotle’s school of philosophy. On the banks of the Ilissos River, most of which today runs underground, the Lyceum was a part of a large complex which also housed a gymnasium where the city’s hoplites and riders were trained in the art of war.

The discovery of the Lyceum and the adjacent Palaistra, or wrestling school, was made by archaeologists in 1996 and was hailed as the ‘discovery of the century’ by international media, not just because it is where Aristotle taught some 2,500 years ago, but also because it contained valuable information regarding the topography of ancient Athens.

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The international image of Greece is a maritime one, perpetuated by pictures of blue Aegean seas and waterfront tavernas. It comes as a surprise to find that the reality is much more mountainous.

The ancient site of Delphi clings to a steep hill and there is a winter ski resort just two hours from Athens at Mt Parnassus. And where there are mountains, there are valleys and gorges, which can make for some amazing walks.

Lousios Gorge
A short drive from the charming Peloponnese village of Dimitsana, the deep cleft of the Lousios Gorge provides walks of varying lengths. We start ours from the New Filosofou monastery which is perched on a small promontory.

The monastery has only three inhabitants and the novice serves us water and sweets, as required by the traditions of Greek hospitality, before we set off to another monastery on the other side of the canyon.

The downward path is steep and rough and requires concentration to avoid slipping. On the way, we pause to visit the ruins of the 10th-century Old Filosofou monastery. Greek monks have a liking for isolation and this wild country affords plenty of that.

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THE fishermen of Agios Nikolaos have developed a well-honed routine that means they don’t have to move very far.

For a couple of hours in the early morning they leave the sanctuary of the perfect harbour in their caïques (traditional fishing boats), returning in time to sell their catch at the little market slab by the harbour wall.

By midday they are spread along the prom like sparrows on a wire, arguing and drinking coffee before the hour of the siesta. 

In the evening they’re back but this time spruced up (a clean T-shirt, perhaps) and their seats along the prom have been taken by tourists, to whom they serve the fish they caught that morning, cooked by their wives.

It’s a simple routine that’s been at the heart of Greek tourism for decades. Agios Nikolaos and its neighbouring resort of Stoupa are in the remotest part of the southern Peloponnese, the hand of land that waggles its fingers in the Aegean.

They are in a region called Mani, once the wildest area of Greece, sealed off behind a mountain range that could only be crossed on foot.

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Whether your ship is a floating multi-story hotel or a ninety-passenger yacht, Greek’s fabled islands are best seen on a cruise. Perhaps Zorba the Greek said it best: ‘Happy is the man who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea.’ Too right, Zorba! And that goes for women, too.

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From ekathimerini

Frankly, this is a great time to travel to Greece. The financial crisis — while making life difficult for most Greeks — is a boon for budget travelers. Hotel prices are down, the normally warm Greek hospitality has ratcheted up a few notches, and roads outside of Athens are essentially traffic-free, as higher gas prices have caused locals to cut down on inessential driving. The downsides (shorter hours at sights, reduced long-distance bus service, occasional strikes) are noticeable, but not reason enough for you to postpone a trip. All the things you’re looking for in a trip to Greece — mouthwatering food, deep-blue water, striking scenery, and the thrill of connecting with ancient history — are all here waiting for you … at a cheaper price.

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It could be the fresh air and the friendly, easy-going, open-door lifestyle. It could be fresh vegetables and goat’s milk.

It could be the mountainous terrain. Everywhere on Ikaria is up, or down, so getting around keeps you fit.

It could even be the natural radiation in the granite rocks. But Stamatis Moraitis thinks he knows what it is.

“It’s the wine,” he says, over a mid-morning glass at his kitchen table. “It’s pure, nothing added. The wine they make commercially has preservatives. That’s no good. But this wine we make ourselves is pure.”

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In the meantime, Greece is a bargain to explore relative to other, pricier European destinations. Starting with hotels – my personal favorite, part of the Yes! Hotels group, is the 79-room New Hotel, a perfect boutique hotel ideally situated on the edge of the famous Plaka district, between the Acropolis and Athens’ busy commercial center.

Read the rest of Anthony Grant’s article on Athens here.

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Why go?
A whaleback ridge looming from the sea, Hydra shot to fame in 1957 as location for Boy on a Dolphin. Soon various foreign personalities (such as Leonard Cohen) bought and restored property here, joining prominent Greeks who had long appreciated the island’s charms. Sumptuous mansions and humbler vernacular homes arrayed amphitheatrically around the marble-quayed harbour date from the 18 and 19 centuries, when Hydriot seafaring prowess brought great wealth. Despite its high-profile reputation, and the mid-day arrival of ‘One-Day Saronic Cruises’, the island remains endearingly time-warped: as a listed architectural reserve, all new construction is (theoretically) banned, and it’s blissfully free of motor vehicles except for a pair of rubbish trucks – photogenic donkeys do most haulage.

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